Dog behaviourist Alex Cooper shares her insights into why some dogs behave reactively, the importance of understanding their triggers, and how muzzle training a reactive dog can be a helpful tool. She also shares advice for helping reactive dogs overcome their triggers through fun, confidence-building activities, including canicross!
Alex Cooper started Coxhill Behaviour Services after adopting a rescue street dog, Zibi, from Bulgaria. Her usual training methods weren’t working with him, so she had to revaluate everything she knew, and trained as a behaviourist work.
What causes reactivity in dogs?
Reactivity can stem from many things: genetics, past trauma, or even the owner’s behaviour.
My dog Herbie, for example, is a Caucasian Shepherd Cross, so his guarding instinct is strong. He’s more protective of me than my daughter.
Owner anxiety can travel down the lead, making the dog more reactive.
Past trauma also plays a role: Herbie doesn’t like people who smoke, likely due to a negative experience in Bulgaria before he was rescued.
Importantly, about 75% of reactive dogs have some form of pain, which is why I always recommend a vet check for any reactive behaviour.
How can over-socialisation affect a dog?
Over-socialisation, especially the wrong kind, can stress a dog. Taking them to busy puppy parties or forcing interactions might not suit every dog. Some thrive in these environments, while others feel overwhelmed. It’s better to focus on introducing them to different smells, places, and situations gradually. For example, I recently saw a puppy who was cautious but became more comfortable over time, just by learning at their own pace.
What are the signs that a dog might be reactive?
Reactivity often shows up in body language. For instance, with my dog Zibi, he gets physically bigger when he’s about to react. His ears prick up, his tail comes up, and his body stiffens. Recognizing these signs early helps. If you can calm them down at that moment, you might prevent a full reaction. It’s all about being in tune with your dog and learning their cues.
How can we help dogs break out of reactive patterns?
It’s all about creating positive associations. A lot of it starts with distraction and relaxation games. One of the first things we teach is “look at me.” It’s a basic but essential command that helps get the dog’s attention on you. Once they’ve mastered that, we move to what I call disengagement games, where they look at what’s triggering them, then look back at us. This helps break their focus and teaches them not to fixate. Another useful exercise is teaching dogs to relax on command. For example, before any Canicross run, you’ll often see me with Herbie getting him to lie down and chill between my legs. That’s our routine to help him calm down before we start.
I run reactive dog classes that focus on fun activities like agility circuits, jumping, weaving, tunnels, so the dogs are so engaged in the exercises that they forget to react. This helps them build confidence around other dogs. Over time, they learn that being near other dogs can be enjoyable, which gradually reduces their reactivity. We always start with fun before moving on to more challenging activities, like walking closer to other dogs.
Can dogs overcome their past negative experiences?
It takes time for reactive dogs to unlearn those patterns. They often remember specific incidents for months or even years, which can make them wary of similar situations. For example, if a dog was hurt by another dog bumping into them, they might always react defensively in similar encounters. It requires consistency and patience to help them overcome those memories. My own dog, Miya, who was blind and nearly died from neglect, took about two years of rehabilitation before she could calmly meet other dogs without reacting.
How important is rest for reactive dogs?
Sleep and comfort are crucial. Many reactive dogs don’t get enough rest. They might only sleep for two or three hours because they can’t relax properly. When I do behaviour consultations, I look at how much sleep they’re getting, what kind of bedding they have, and whether they feel comfortable. Sometimes, just giving them more options for where they can sleep or adding more toys and chews can make a big difference. We also introduce food trays, offering them a variety of foods like vegetables, fish, and meat, which gives them a sense of choice and control. This can help build their confidence too.
What is trigger stacking, and how do we avoid this?
Trigger stacking is a big deal. If your dog encounters too many stressful situations in quick succession, their tolerance wears down, and they’re more likely to react. For instance, Herbie could walk calmly between two golfers, but when a third golfer came along, he’d had enough and reacted. It’s important to know your dog’s limits and work within them. Don’t flood them with too many triggers at once. Go for walks in quieter areas, like woods where you might only pass one or two dogs, instead of busy paths. This way, they still get exposure without feeling overwhelmed.
Can leads make reactive dogs worse?
Being on a lead can make a dog feel trapped. If a dog can’t run away, they might choose to fight instead, so you get that reactive barking or lunging. With ours, they’re always on leads, but we make it fun and build their confidence. We’ve trained them to come and sit between our legs when another dog approaches, so they know they’re safe and nothing bad will happen. That helps manage their reactivity.
How can owners know they’re making progress with their reactive dog?
Progress can look different for every dog, but it’s about celebrating those little improvements. With Herbie, we’ve seen massive growth over the past year. This time last year, he was extremely reactive and even aggressive at times due to pain and fear. After his luxating patella surgery, he had to start hydrotherapy, which was a big challenge. He was terrified at first, but now he happily walks onto the treadmill and even lets the hydrotherapist pet him between sessions. That’s huge for a dog that used to bite when scared.
At the vet’s, Herbie used to react aggressively, barking and lunging. On a recent visit, he allowed the vet to administer his booster and kennel cough vaccine without any fuss. That’s massive progress for us. He still barks sometimes, but now I can take him out on my own, walk him past people, and get through those situations much more easily. So, progress can be about those small, everyday victories—like walking past a trigger without a meltdown. It’s all about consistency and celebrating those moments of calm.
Should we be trying to desensitise our dogs to difficult situations, or avoid those situations entirely?
You shouldn’t completely avoid challenging situations because that can reinforce the idea that those situations are dangerous. However, you also don’t want to overwhelm them by constantly putting them in stressful environments. It’s about finding a balance. Take them to places where there’s enough space to work with their triggers, like a quieter park or a less busy time of day. This way, they still get exposure but with more room to manage their reactions. You want to build their confidence without pushing them too far too fast.
What’s the best way to deal with a reactive dogs in public?
When you’re out and about, it’s important to make people aware. I usually say something like, “She’s scared, please give us some space.” This helps people understand that it’s not bad behaviour, but fear. Unfortunately, some people don’t always react kindly, but explaining it can help change perceptions.
Why should we consider muzzle training a reactive dog?
Muzzle training a reactive dog can be a lifesaver. It ensures safety, especially in unpredictable situations. But it’s important to make muzzle wearing a positive experience. Start by introducing the muzzle slowly, associating it with treats and positive reinforcement. Gradually increase the time they wear it, so they get comfortable. It’s key to use the right type of muzzle, one that allows your dog to pant and drink while wearing it. Muzzle training can be essential for safety, especially with reactive dogs. It allows them to be in situations where they may react without the risk of harming another dog or person. But it’s important to introduce the muzzle positively. Start slowly, using treats and rewarding the dog for wearing it for short periods. Over time, they’ll become comfortable with it, and muzzle training a reactive dog can be a very helpful tool for managing reactivity while continuing to work on the root causes.
What other reasons might a dog need a muzzle?
Muzzles can help with many issues, and it’s not a sign of a dangerous dog. Muzzle training can be valuable for all dogs. In stressful situations, like a vet visit or an accident, a dog that’s familiar with a muzzle will be far more comfortable if it needs to wear one. It’s great to have the training in place, even if your dog never wears a muzzle in everyday life.
Some dogs might have dietary issues, and the muzzle stops them from eating things off the floor. Others might wear one because they tend to eat animal poo. Certain breeds, like XL bullies, must wear them by law.
Are there situations where a muzzle shouldn’t be used?
Never use a muzzle to put a dog in a situation that will make them uncomfortable. For example, if you’re having a party, putting a muzzle on the dog and hoping for the best isn’t the right approach. It should be used only when necessary, like during walks or training, where the dog knows the muzzle is a positive tool.
Does muzzle training a reactive dog reduce a dog’s reactivity?
No, a muzzle doesn’t reduce reactivity. It’s purely for safety – for the dog, other dogs, and people. Some owners mistakenly think putting a muzzle on will stop all problems, but that’s not the case. It’s important to keep working on the root cause of the reactivity while using the muzzle as a safety tool.
How do you introduce a dog to wearing a muzzle?
Muzzle training a reactive dog can be easy if you make it a positive experience. I start by using dog-friendly peanut butter or something tasty on the inside of the muzzle, so the dog associates it with something positive. We do this in short training sessions, letting them put their nose in to lick it off. Over time, they get used to it. I also recommend building up the time they wear it gradually, rewarding them as they get more comfortable.
How can you tell if a dog is comfortable with a muzzle?
A happy, comfortable dog will walk normally, tail up, and not be trying to get the muzzle off. If they’re panting excessively (not just from heat), have a low body posture, or are rolling on the ground trying to remove it, they’re likely uncomfortable.
How do I choose the right muzzle for my reactive dog?
The muzzle should be lightweight, allow the dog to pant, eat, drink, and play, and fit comfortably. I recommend basket-style muzzles over those that shut the mouth. Many websites offer fitting guides to help you find the right size. For example, I use The Muzzle Movement one for Herbie, and it fits him perfectly.
The Baskerville Ultra Muzzle is a popular and effective option for many dogs. It’s designed to allow dogs to pant, drink, and even take treats while wearing it, which is important for comfort and practicality. Just make sure to measure your dog properly to get the right fit, and always prioritize comfort for the dog.
Where can listeners find you online and book services?
You can find me on Facebook and Instagram under Coxhill Behaviour Services. I’m based near Dover, Kent, but I also offer Zoom sessions for anyone further afield.
You can listen to my podcast with Alex here
Book a canicross taster session with me today and find out how canicross can help a reactive dog.
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